PUBLICATIONS

1 - Nearshore processes

Refereed Journal Papers and book chapters  


[112] Filippini, A. G., Arpaia, L., Perrier, V., Pedreros, R., Bonneton, P., Lannes, D., ... & Ricchiuto, M. (2024). An operational discontinuous Galerkin shallow water model for coastal flood assessment. Ocean Modelling, doi.org/10.1016/j.ocemod.2024.102447, (.pdf)

[111] Bonneton, P. 2023. Energy and dissipation spectra of waves propagating in the inner surf zone. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 977, A48, doi:10.1017/jfm.2023.878   (.pdf)

[110] Martins, K., Bonneton, P., De Viron, O., Turner, I. L., Harley, M. D., & Splinter, K. (2023). New Perspectives for Nonlinear Depth-inversion of the Nearshore Using Boussinesq Theory.  Geophysical Research letters. 50, e2022GL100498.
https://doi.org/10.1029/2022GL100498    (.pdf)

[109] Mouragues, A., Martins, K., Bonneton, P., & Castelle, B. (2022). Headland Rip Very-low-Frequency Fluctuations and Surf Zone Eddies during High-Energy Wave Events. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 52 (12)  https://doi.org/10.1175/JPO-D-22-0006.1     (.pdf)

[108]
Martins, K., Bonneton, P., Lannes, D., & Michallet, H. 2021. Relation between orbital velocities, pressure and surface elevation in non-linear nearshore water waves. Journal of Physical Oceanography. 51 (11).  doi.org/10.1175/JPO-D-21-0061.1     (.pdf)

[107] 
Martins, K., Bonneton, P. and Michallet, H.,  2021. Dispersive characteristics of non-linear waves propagating and breaking over a mildly sloping laboratory beach. Coastal Eng.,  167, 103917. doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2021.103917
 (.pdf)

[106] Mouragues, A.; Bonneton, P.; Castelle, B.; Martins, K. 2021 Headland Rip Modelling at a Natural Beach under High-Energy Wave Conditions. J. Mar. Sci. Eng., 9, 1161. https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse9111161     (.pdf)

[105] Rodríguez-Padilla, I., Castelle, B., Marieu, V., Bonneton, P., Mouragues, A., Martins, K., & Morichon, D. (2021). Wave-Filtered Surf Zone Circulation under High-Energy Waves Derived from Video-Based Optical Systems. Remote Sensing, 13(10), 1874, /doi.org/10.3390/rs13101874.    (.pdf)

[104] Zeiger, P., Frappart, F., Darrozes, J., Roussel, N., Bonneton P., Bonneton, N.and Detandt, G. 2021
. SNR-Based Water Height Retrieval in Rivers: Application to High Amplitude Asymmetric Tides in the Garonne River. Remote Sens.,, 13, 1856.
https://doi.org/10.3390/rs13091856.
      (.pdf)

[103] Martins, K., Bonneton, P., Bayle, P. M., Blenkinsopp, C. E., Mouragues, A., & Michallet, H. (2020). Surf Zone Wave Measurements from Lidar Scanners: Analysis of Non-hydrostatic Processes. Journal of Coastal Research, 95(sp1), 1189-1194.   (.pdf)

[102] Martins, K.,
Bonneton, P., Mouragues, A. and Castelle, B. 2020. Non-hydrostatic, non-linear processes in the surf zone.  J. Geophys. Res.: Ocean, https://doi.org/10.1029/2019JC015521    (.pdf)

[101] Mouragues, A., Bonneton, P., Castelle, B., Marieu, V., McCarroll, R. J., Rodriguez-Padilla, I., et al. (2020). High-energy surf zone currents and headland rips at a geologically constrained mesotidal beach. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 125, e2020JC016259. https://doi.org/10.1029/2020JC016259  (.pdf)

[100] Mouragues, A., Bonneton, P., Castelle, B., Marieu, V., Barrett, A., Bonneton, N., ... & Poate, T. (2020). Field Observations of Wave-induced Headland Rips. Journal of Coastal Research, 95(sp1), 578-582.     (.pdf)

[99] Sous, D.; Castelle, B.; Mouragues, A.; Bonneton, P. Field Measurements of a High-Energy Headland Deflection Rip Current: Tidal Modulation, Very Low Frequency Pulsation and Vertical Structure. J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2020, 8, 534.    (.pdf)

[98] Agredano R., Cienfuegos R., Catalán P.,  Mignot E., Bonneton P., Bonneton N., Martínez C. 2019. Morphological changes in a cuspate sandy beach under persistent high-energy swells: Reñaca Beach (Chile),
Marine Geology, Volume 417, 105988, ISSN 0025-3227, doi.org/10.1016/j.margeo.2019.105988    (.pdf)

[97]  Bacigaluppi P., Ricchiuto M. and Bonneton P. 2019 Implementation and evaluation of breaking detection criteria for a hybrid Boussinesq model. Water Waves, https://doi.org/10.1007/s42286-019-00023-8  (.pdf)

[96] Bonneton, P. and Dronkers, J. 2019. Tidal bore dynamics. Available from http://www.coastalwiki.org/wiki/Tidal_bore_dynamics [accessed on 26-08-2019]

[95] Chassagne, R., Filippini, A., Ricchiuto, M., & Bonneton, P. 2019. Dispersive and dispersive-like bores in channels with sloping banks. Journal of Fluid Mechanics870, 595-616. doi:10.1017/jfm.2019.287. (.pdf)

[94] Filippini, A. G., Arpaia, L., Bonneton, P., & Ricchiuto, M. 2019. Modeling analysis of tidal bore formation in convergent estuaries. European Journal of Mechanics-B/Fluids, 73, 55-68. (.pdf)

[93] Kalisch, H., Ricchiuto, M., Bonneton, P., Colin, M., & Lubin, P. 2019. Introduction to the Special Issue on Breaking Waves. European Journal of Mechanics B Fluids, 73, 1-5. (.pdf)

[92] Mouragues, A.,  Bonneton, P.,  Lannes, D.,  Castelle, C.,  Marieu, V. 2019 Field data-based evaluation of methods for recovering surface wave elevation from pressure measurements, Coastal Eng., 150, 147-159,
 
doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2019.04.006 .   (.pdf)

[91]
Vu P.L., Ha M.C., Frappart F., Darrozes J., Ramillien G., Dufrechou G., Gegout P., Morichon D., and Bonneton P.  2019. Identifying 2010 Xynthia Storm Signature in GNSS-R-Based Tide Records. Remote Sens. 2019, 11(7), 782; doi.org/10.3390/rs11070782    (.pdf)

[90] Bertin, X., de Bakker, A., van Dongeren, A., Coco, G. André, G., Ardhuin, F., Bonneton, P. et al. 2018. Infragravity waves: from driving mechanisms to impacts.  Earth Science Reviews, 177, 774-799. (.pdf).

[89] Bonneton, P.,  Lannes, D, Martins, K. and Michallet, H. 2018. A nonlinear weakly dispersive method for recovering  the elevation of irrotational surface waves from pressure measurements.  Coastal Eng. 138, 1-8.  (.pdf).

[88] Doré, A., Bonneton, P., Marieu, V. and Garlan T. 2018. Observation and numerical modeling of tidal dune dynamics. Ocean Dynamics (2018), 1-14. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10236-018-1141-0 (.pdf)

[87]
Bonneton, P., and Lannes, D. 2017. Recovering water wave elevation from pressure measurements. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 833, 399-429. (.pdf)

[86] Martins, K., Bonneton, P., Frappart, F., Detandt, G., Bonneton, N. and Blenkinsopp, C.E. 2017. High frequency field measurements of an undular bore using a 2D LiDAR scanner. Remote Sensing, 9(5), 462; doi:10.3390/rs9050462   (.pdf)

[85] Frappart, F., Roussel, N., Darrozes, J., Bonneton, P., Bonneton, N., Detandt, G., Perosanz, F. and Loyer, S. 2016 High rate GNSS measurements for detecting non-hydrostatic surface wave. Application to tidal bore in the Garonne River. European Journal of Remote Sensing. 49, 917-932. doi: 10.5721/EuJRS20164948  (.pdf)

[84] Bonneton, P., Filippini, A.G., Arpaia, L., Bonneton, N. and Ricchiuto, M  2016. Conditions for tidal bore formation in convergent alluvial estuaries.  Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science. 172, 121-127 (.pdf)

[83] Doré, A., Bonneton, P., Marieu, V. and Garlan, T. 2016. Modeling subaqueous sand dune morphodynamic evolutionJ. Geophys. Res.: Earth Surface, 121, 565-587. DOI: 10.1002/2015JF003689 (.pdf)

[82] Bonneton, P., Bonneton, N., Parisot, J-P. and Castelle, B. 2015. Tidal bore dynamics in funnel-shaped estuaries.  J. Geophys. Res.: Ocean120(2), 923-941. DOI: 10.1002/2014JC010267 (.pdf)

[81] Tissier, M.,  Bonneton, P., Michallet, H.  and Ruessink, B.G. 2015. Infragravity-wave modulation of short-wave celerity in the surf zoneJ. Geophys. Res.: Ocean, 120(10), 6799-6814. DOI: 10.1002/2015JC010708 (.pdf)

[80] Almar, R., Michallet, H., Cienfuegos, R., Bonneton, P., Tissier, M. and Ruessink, G. 2014. On the use of the Radon Transform in studying nearshore wave dynamics. Coastal Eng. 92, 24-30. DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2014.06.008 (.pdf)  

[79] Bacigaluppi, P., Ricchiuto, M., & Bonneton, P. 2014. A 1D Stabilized Finite Element Model for Non-hydrostatic Wave Breaking and Run-up. In Finite Volumes for Complex Applications VII-Elliptic, Parabolic and Hyperbolic Problems (pp. 779-790). Springer International Publishing. (.pdf)

[78] Bruneau, N., Bertin, X., Castelle, B. and Bonneton, P. 2014. Tide-induced flow signature in rip currents on a meso-macrotidal beach. Ocean Modelling, 74, 53-59, http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ocemod.2013.12.002  (.pdf)

[77] Capo, S., Lubac, B., Marieu, V., Robinet, A., Bru, D., & Bonneton, P. 2014. Assessment of the decadal morphodynamic evolution of a mixed energy inlet using ocean color remote sensing. Ocean Dynamics, 1-14. DOI 10.1007/s10236-014-0762-1 (.pdf)

[76] Batifoulier, F., Lazure, P., Velo-Suarez, L., Maurer, D., Bonneton, P., Charria, G., Dupuy, C., and Gentien, P. 2013. Distribution of Dinophysis species in the Bay of Biscay and possible transport pathways to Arcachon Bay, Journal of Marine Systems, 109, SI, 273-283DOI: 10.1016/j.jmarsys.2011.12.007  (.pdf)

[75] Bonneton, P., Abadie, S., Castelle, B., Favennec, J., Mallet, C., Sottolichio, A. 2013. Modification du littoral.  Chapitre 6.1 du livre Les impacts du changement climatique en Aquitaine : Un état des lieux scientifique (Hervé le Treut). Presses universitaires de Bordeaux. (.pdf)

[74] Castelle, B., Dubardier, B., Tissier, M., Bonneton, P., Conley, D.C., Ruessink, B.G., Masselink, G. 2013. Testing numerical hydrodynamic and morphodynamic models against BARDEX II Experiment data sets. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 65 (2), 1745-1750. (.pdf)

[73] Michallet, H., Castelle, B.,  Barthélemy, E.,  Berni, C. and Bonneton, P.  2013. Physical modeling of three-dimensional intermediate beach morphodynamics,  J. Geophys. Res.: Earth Surf. 118, 1045–1059, doi:10.1002/jgrf.20078 (.pdf)

[72] Almar, R., Cienfuegos, R., Catalán, P.A., Michallet, H., Castelle, B., Bonneton, P. and Marieu, V. 2012. A new breaking wave height direct estimator from video imagery. Coastal Engineering, 61, 42-48 doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2011.12.004 (.pdf)

[71] Almar, R., Ranasinghe, R., Senechal, N., Bonneton, P., Roelvink, D., Bryan, K.R., Marieu, V. and Parisot, J-P. 2012. Video-based detection of shorelines at complex meso–macro tidal beaches. Journal of Coastal Research, 28(5), 1040–1048. ISSN 0749-0208. (.pdf)

[70] Batifoulier, F., Lazure, P. and Bonneton, P. 2012. Poleward coastal jets induced by westerlies in the Bay of Biscay,  J. Geophys. Res. 117, C03023, doi:10.1029/2011JC007658 (.pdf)

[69] Bonneton, N., Bonneton, P., Parisot, J-P., Sottolichio, A. and Detandt G. 2012. Tidal bore and Mascaret - example of Garonne and Seine Rivers. Comptes Rendus Geosciences, 344, 508-515. (.pdf)

[68] Castelle, B., Marieu, V., Coco, G.,. Bonneton, P. Bruneau, N. and  Ruessink, B.G. 2012.  On the impact of an offshore bathymetric anomaly on surf zone rip channels, J. Geophys. Res., 117, F1, doi:10.1029/2011JF002141 (.pdf)

[67] Douillet P., Ouillon S., Dumas F., Jouon A., Bonneton P. , Lefebvre J.P., Le Gendre R. L'hydrodynamique du lagon sud-ouest. In : Bonvallot Jacques, Gay Jean-Christophe, Habert Elisabeth. Atlas de la Nouvelle Calédonie. Marseille (FRA) ; Nouméa : IRD ; Congrès de la Nouvelle-Calédonie, 2012, p. 41-44. ISBN 978-2-7099-1740-1

[66] Parisot, J-P., Cheng, C., Zaragosi, S., Hanquiez, V., Bonneton, P.,  and Bonneton, N. 2012. Suivi aérien du mascaret de la Garonne le 10 septembre 2010. Géomatique expert, 88, 60-71. (.pdf)

[65] Tissier, M., Bonneton, P., Marche, F., Chazel, F., and Lannes, D. 2012. A new approach to handle wave breaking in fully non-linear Boussinesq models. Coastal Eng., 67, 54–66. doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2012.04.004  (.pdf)

[64] Bonneton, P., Chazel, F., Lannes, D., Marche, F. and Tissier, M. 2011. A splitting approach for the fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive Green-Naghdi model. J. Comput. Phys., 230 (4), 1479–1498, doi:10.1016/j.jcp.2010.11.015  (.pdf).

[63] Bonneton, P., Barthelemy, E., Chazel, F., Cienfuegos, R., Lannes, D, Marche, F., Tissier, M. 2011. Recent advances in Serre–Green Naghdi modelling for wave transformation, breaking and runup processes.  Eur. J. Mech. B Fluids, 30, 589-597, doi:10.1016/j.euromechflu.2011.02.005  (.pdf)

[62] Bonneton, P., Van de Loock, J., Parisot, J-P., Bonneton, N., Sottolichio, A., Detandt, G., Castelle, B., Marieu, V. and Pochon, N., 2011 On the occurrence of tidal bores -The Garonne River case. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 64, 11462-1466. (.pdf)

[61] Bonneton, P, Parisot, J-P., Bonneton, N., Sottolichio, A., Castelle, B., Marieu, V., Pochon, N. and Van de Loock, J. 2011. Large amplitude undular tidal bore propagation in the Garonne River, France,  Proceedings of the 21st ISOPE Conference , 870-874, ISBN 978-1-880653-96-8. (.pdf)

[60] Bruneau, N.,  Bonneton, P., Castelle, B. and Pedreros R. 2011. Modeling rip current circulations and vorticity in a high-energy meso-macrotidal environment. J. Geophys. Res., 116, C07026, doi:10.1029/2010JC006693 (.pdf)

[59 ] Castelle, B., Michallet, H., Marieu, V., Bonneton, P. 2011. Surf zone retention in a laboratory experiment. Journal of Coastal Research, ISSN 0749-0208, SI 64, 50-54. (.pdf)

[58] Michallet H., Bonneton P.  2011 Preface to 'Nearshore Hydrodynamics' special issue, European Journal of Mechanics - B/Fluids, 30, 551.

[57] Sénéchal, N., Abadie, S., Gallagher, E., MacMahan, J.H.M., Masselink, G., Michallet, H., Reniers, Ad J.H.M., Ruessink, B.G., Russell, P.E., Sous, D., Turner, I.L., Ardhuin, F., Bonneton, P., Bujan, S., Capo, S., Certain, R., Pedreros, R. , Garlan, T. 2011. The ECORS- Truc Vert’08 nearshore field experiment: presentation of a three-dimensional morphologic system in a macro-tidal environment during consecutive extreme storm conditions. Ocean Dynamics, 61, 2073–2098. DOI: 10.1007/s10236-011-0472-x. (.pdf)

[56] Tissier, M., Bonneton, P., Almar, R.,  Castelle, B., Bonneton, N. and  Nahon A. 2011 Field measurements and non-linear prediction of wave celerity in the surf zoneEur. J. Mech. B Fluids, 30, 635–641, doi:10.1016/j.euromechflu.2010.11.003 (.pdf)

[55] Tissier, M., Bonneton, P., Marche, F., Chazel, F., and Lannes, D. 2011 Nearshore dynamics of tsunami-like undular bores using a fully nonlinear Boussinesq model. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 64, 603-607.  (.pdf)

[54] Almar, R., Castelle, B., Ruessink, G., Sénéchal, N., Bonneton, P., Marieu, V. 2010 Two- and three-dimensional double-sandbar system behaviour under intense wave forcing and a meso–macro tidal range. Continental Shelf Res, 30 (7), 781-792. (.pdf)

[53] Bonneton, P., Bruneau, N., Marche, F. and Castelle, B. 2010 Large-scale vorticity generation due to dissipating waves in the surf zone. DCDS-B, 13(4), 729-738, doi:10.3934/dcdsb.2010.13.729. (.pdf)

[52] Castelle, B., H. Michallet, V. Marieu, F. Leckler, B. Dubardier, A. Lambert, C. Berni, P. Bonneton, E. Barthelemy, and F. Bouchette (2010), Laboratory experiment on rip current circulations over a moveable bed: drifter measurements, J. Geophys. Res., 115, C12008, doi:10.1029/2010JC006343. (.pdf)

[51] Castelle, B., Ruessink, B.G., Bonneton, P., Marieu, V., Bruneau, N., Price, T.D. 2010 Coupling mechanisms in double sandbar systems, Part 1: Physical explanation and coupling patterns. Earth Surf. Process. Landforms, 35, 476–486.  DOI: 10.1002/esp.1929  (.pdf)
 
[50] Castelle, B., Ruessink, B.G., Bonneton, P., Marieu, V., Bruneau, N., Price, T.D. 2010 Coupling mechanisms in double sandbar systems, Part 2: impact on alongshore variability of inner-bar rip channels. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 35, 771–781. DOI: 10.1002/esp.1949  (.pdf)
 
[49] Castelle, B., Marieu, V., Bonneton, P., Bruneau, N., Grasso, F. 2010 Modelling beach profile evolutions, La Houille Blanche, ISSN 0018-6368, 1, 104-110. (.pdf)
 
[48] Cienfuegos, R., Barthelemy, E. and Bonneton, P.  2010 A wave-breaking model for Boussinesq-type equations including mass-induced effects. J. Waterway, Port Coastal and Ocean Engrg, 136, 10-26. (.pdf)

[47] Ouillon S., Douillet P., Lefebvre J.P., Le Gendre R., Bonneton P., Jouon A., Fernandez J.M., Chevillon C., Lefèvre J., Le Hir P., Dumas F., Marchesiello P., Andréfouët S., Panché J.Y., Fichez R. 2010 Circulation and suspended sediment transport in a coral reef lagoon: the southwest lagoon of New Caledonia. Marine Pollution Bulletin, 61, 269-296. (.pdf)

[46] Almar, R., Castelle, B., Ruessink, G., Sénéchal, N., Bonneton, P., Marieu, V. 2009. High-frequency video observation of a double sandbar system under high-energy wave forcing. Journal of Coastal Research SI 56, 1706-1710. (.pdf)
 
[45] Bruneau, N., Castelle, B., Bonneton, P., Pedreros, R., Almar, R., Bonneton, N., Bretel, P., Parisot, J-P. and Sénéchal, N. 2009  Field observations of an evolving rip current on a meso-macrotidal well-developed inner bar and rip morphology. Continental Shelf Res, 29,1650–1662, doi:10.1016/j.csr.2009.05.005. (.pdf)

[44] Castelle, B.,  P. Bretel, S. Morisset, P. Bonneton , N. Bonneton, M. Tissier, C. Sotin, A. Nahon, N. Bruneau, J.-P. Parisot, S. Capo, S. Bujan, V. Marieu 2009. Rip current system over strong alongshore non-uniformities: on the use of HADCP for model validation. J. of Coast. Res. SI 56, 1746-1750. (.pdf)

[43] Bruneau, N., Castelle, B., Bonneton, P. and Pedreros, R  2009. Very Low Frequency motions of a rip current system: observations and modeling. J. of Coast. Res. SI 56, 1731-1735.

[42] Lannes D., Bonneton P. 2009. Derivation of asymptotic two-dimensional time-dependent equations for surface water wave propagation. Physics of Fluids 21 (1), 016601 (9 pages), DOI: 10.1063/1.3053183. (.pdf)

[41] Garnier, R., Bonneton, P., Falqués, A. et Calvete, D. 2008. Modelling the formation and the nonlinear evolution of crescentic bars of the Aquitanian coast. La Houille Blanche 3, 33-38. (.pdf)

[40] Marieu V. , Bonneton P., Foster D.L., Ardhuin F. 2008. Modeling of vortex ripple morphodynamics. Journal of Geophysical Research 113, C09007.      (.pdf)

[39a] Bonneton, P. 2007 Extended version of  paper [39] (A shock-wave model for periodic-wave transformation and energy dissipation in the inner surf zone ) (.pdf)

[39] Bonneton, P. 2007 Modelling of periodic wave transformation in the inner surf zone. Ocean Engineering 34, 1459-1471. (.pdf)

[38] Bonneton, P., Lefebvre, J-P., Bretel, P., Ouillon, S. and Douillet, P. 2007. Tidal modulation of wave-setup and wave-induced currents on the Aboré coral reef, New Caledonia. J. of Coast. Res. SI 50, 762-766. (.pdf)

[37] Bruneau, N., Bonneton, P., Pedreros, R., Dumas, F. and Idier, D. 2007 A New Morphodynamical Modeling Platform: Application to Characteristic Sandy systems of the Aquitanian Coast, France. J. of Coast. Res., SI 50, 932-936.

[36] Castelle B., Bonneton P., Dupuis H., Sénéchal N. 2007. Double bar beach dynamics on the high-energy meso-macrotidal French Aquitanian coast: a review. Marine Geology 245, 141-159. (.pdf)

[35] Cienfuegos, R., Barthelemy, E. and Bonneton, P. 2007. A fourth-order compact finite volume scheme for fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive Boussinesq-type equations. Part II: Boundary conditions and model validation. Int. J. Numer. Meth. Fluids 53 (9), 1423-1455. (.pdf)

[34] Marche, F., Bonneton, P., Fabrie, P. and Seguin, N.  2007 Evaluation of  well-balanced bore-capturing schemes for 2D wetting and drying processes. Int. J. Numer. Meth. Fluids 53 (5), 867-894. (.pdf)

[33] Castelle, B., Bonneton, P., Sénéchal, N., Dupuis, H., Butel, R. and Michel, D. 2006. Dynamics of wave-induced currents over a multi-barred beach on the Aquitanian coast. Continental Shelf Res. 26, 113-131. (.pdf)

[32] Castelle B., Bonneton P., Butel R. 2006. Modeling of crescentic pattern development of nearshore bars: Aquitanian Coast, France. Comptes Rendus Geosciences 338, 795-801. (.pdf)

[31] Castelle, B. and Bonneton, P. 2006. Modeling of a rip current induced by waves over a ridge and runnel system on the Aquitanian Coast, France. C.R. Geosciences 338 (10), 711-717. (.pdf)

[30] Cienfuegos, R., Barthelemy, E. and Bonneton, P. 2006. A fourth-order compact finite volume scheme for fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive Boussinesq-type equations. Part I: Model development and analysis. Int. J. Numer. Meth. Fluids 56, 1217-1253. (.pdf)

[29] Cienfuegos, R., Barthelemy, E. and Bonneton, P.  2005. Résolution numérique en volumes finis d'un système d'équations de Serre étendu. Revue Européenne de Génie Civil, numéro spécial "Génie-Côtier" 9, 889-902. (.pdf)

[28] Bonneton, P., Marieu, V., Dupuis, H., Sénéchal, N. and Castelle, B. 2004 Wave transformation and energy dissipation in the surf zone: comparison between a non-linear model and field data. J. of Coast. Res., SI 39, 329-333. (.pdf)

[27] Bonneton, N., Sous, D., Bonneton, P. and Sommeria, J. 2004 Dynamics of large-scale vortices in the near shore.  J. of Coast. Res.,  SI 39, 682-686.

[26] Castelle, B. and Bonneton, P. 2004 Nearshore waves and currents over crescentic bars. J. of Coast. Res., SI 39, 687-691. (.pdf)

[25] Sénéchal, N., Dupuis, H. and Bonneton, P. 2004 Preliminary hydrodynamic results of a field experiment on a barred beach, Truc Vert beach on October 2001. Ocean Dynamics, 54, 408-414. 

[24] Bonneton, P. 2003  Dynamique non-linéaire des vagues en zone de surf interne. Revue Française de Génie Civil, numéro spécial "Génie-Côtier",  7, 1061-1076. (.pdf)

[23] Bonneton, P.  2003 Analyse physique et modélisation des processus hydrodynamiques en zone de surf.  Oceanis, 29, 157-179. (.pdf)
 
[22] Butel, R., Dupuis, H. and Bonneton, P. 2002 Spatial variability of wave conditions on the french atlantic coast using in-situ data. J. of Coast. Res., SI 36,  96-108. (.pdf)

[21] Sénéchal, N., Bonneton, P. and Dupuis, H., 2002. Field experiment on secondary wave generation on a barred beach and the consequent evolution of energy dissipation on the beach face. Coastal Engineering, 46, 233-247. (.pdf)

[20] Sénéchal, N., Bonneton, P. and Dupuis, H., 2002 Infragravity wave frequency structure on a double barred beach. J. of Coast. Res., SI 36,  654-661.
 
[19] Bonneton, P. 2001 A note on wave propagation in the inner surf zone, C.R. Acad. Sci. Paris,   329, Série II b, 27-33. (.pdf)

[18] Sénéchal, N., Dupuis, H., Bonneton, P., Howa, H. and Pedreros, R. 2001 Observation of irregular wave transformation in the surf zone over a gently slopping sandy beach, Oceanologica Acta, 24 (6), 545-556. (.pdf)

[17] Vincent, S., Bonneton, P. and Caltagirone, J-P. 2001 Numerical modelling of bore propagation and run-up on sloping beaches using a MacCormack TVD scheme, J. of Hydr. Research, 39, 41-49. (.pdf)


Conference Proceedings

Bonneton, P., & Martins, K. (2024) Caractérisation in situ du comportement spectral des vagues en zone de surf. Proc. Journées Nationales Génie Côtier-Génie Civil, Anglet, 2024. DOI:10.5150/jngcgc.2024.004  https://hal.science/hal-04603181v1

Bonneton, P., (2022) Turbulence de type Burgers dans la zone de surf.  Proc. Congrès Français de Mécanique   (.pdf)

Bonneton, P., Mouragues, A., Lannes, D., Martins, K., & Michallet, H. (2018). A SIMPLE AND ACCURATE NONLINEAR METHOD FOR RECOVERING THE SURFACE WAVE ELEVATION FROM PRESSURE MEASUREMENTS. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(36), waves.46. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.waves.46 (.pdf)

Filippini, A., De Brye, S., Perrier, V., Marche, F., Ricchiuto, M., Lannes, D., & Bonneton, P. 2018. UHAINA: A parallel high performance unstructured near-shore wave model. In Journées Nationales Génie Côtier-Génie Civil. Editions Paralia. (.pdf)

Mouragues, A., Bonneton, P., Lannes, D., Marieu, V., Detandt, G., Castelle, B. & Dubarbier, B. 2018. Étude comparative des méthodes de reconstruction du champ de vagues à partir de la mesure de pression: Application à la plage de La Salie. In Journées Nationales Génie Côtier-Génie Civil. Editions Paralia. 

Doré, A., Bonneton, P., Marieu, V. and Garlan, T. 2017. Observation and numerical modeling of tidal sand dune dynamics. Coastal Dynamics 2017, Denmark, 1721-1731.

Tissier, M., Bonneton, P. and Ruessink, G. 2017. Infragravity waves and bore merging. Coastal Dynamics 2017, Denmark, 451-460. (.pdf)

Arpaia, L., Filippini, A. G., Bonneton, P., & Ricchiuto, M. 2015. Modelling analysis of tidal bore formation in convergent estuaries. In 36th International Association for Hydro-Environnement Engineering and Research (IAHR) World Conference.

Doré, A., Bonneton, P., Marieu, V. and Garlan, T. 2015. Modeling of the morphodynamic evolution of subaqueous sand dune. Proc. 15th Coastal Sediment Conference, May 11-15, San Diego, USA.

Almar, R., Bonneton, N., Bonneton, P., Lefebvre, J-P., Dinh, V.U, Nguyen, T.V, Le, T.B and Nguyen, V.D. 2014. Swash hydro-morphodynamics at the low-tide terrace beach during post-typhoon recovery period, Nha Trang bay, Vietnam. Proc. 19th IAHR-APD Congress 2014. (.pdf)

Dore, A., Bonneton, P., Marieu, V. et Garlan, T. 2014. Modélisation de l’évolution morphodynamique des dunes sous-marines. Proc. JNGCGC 2014, 289-296 - DOI:10.5150/jngcgc.2014.032

Almar, R., Bonneton, P., Michallet, H., Cienfuegos, R., Ruessink, B. G., and Tissier, M. 2013. On the use of the Radon transform in studying nearshore wave dynamics. Proceedings of Coastal Dynamics, edited by Bonneton, P. and Garlan T., 73-82.

Capo, S., Marieu, V., Bru, D., Lubac, B., and  Bonneton, P. 2013. Decadal morphodynamics evolution of a mixed-energy inlet using multispectral SPOT imagery. Proceedings of Coastal Dynamics, edited by Bonneton, P. and Garlan T., 283-294.

Ruessink, B. G., Michallet, H., Bonneton, P., Mouazé, D., Lara, J. L., Silva, P. A., and Wellens, P. 2013. GLOBEX: Wave dynamics on a gently sloping laboratory beach. Proceedings of Coastal Dynamics, edited by Bonneton, P. and Garlan T., 1351-1362.

Tissier, M., Almar, R., Bonneton, P., Michalet, H., Birrien, F., de Bakker, A., and Ruessink, G. 2013. Individual wave celerity in the surf zone of a low-sloping laboratory beach. Proceedings of Coastal Dynamics, edited by Bonneton, P. and Garlan T., 1677-1686.

Bonneton, N., Bonneton, P, Parisot and Sottolichio, A. 2012 Shear velocity structure and sediment resuspension associated with tidal bores.  River flow 2012, San José, Costa Rica, 5-7 Sep. 2012 (.pdf)

Tissier, M., Bonneton, P., Ruessink, G.,  Marche, F., Chazel, F.and Lannes, D.,. 2012 Fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type modelling of infragravity wave transformation over a low-sloping beach. Proc. 33rd Int. Conf. on Coastal Eng., Santander, Spain. (.pdf)

Bonneton, N., Bonneton, P, Parisot, J-P., Detandt, G., Sottolichio, A. and Crapoulet, A. 2011 Structure verticale des courants associés à la propagation de la marée dans la Garonne - Impact du mascaret.  20ème Congrès Français de Mécanique, 6p. (.pdf)

Castelle, B., Michallet, H., Marieu, V., Leckler, F., Dubardier, B., Lambert, A., Berni, C., Barthélemey, E., Bouchette, F., Bonneton, P., Kimmoun, O., Sous, D., Almar, R. 2010. Modélisation physique des courants d'arrachement: apport des mesures lagrangiennes. Proceedings des XIèmes Journées Nationales Génier Côtier - Génie Civil, 53-60.

Michallet, H., Castelle, B., Bouchette, F., Lambert, A., Berni, C., Barthélemy, E., Bonneton, P., Sous, D. 2010. Modélisation physique de la morphodynamique d'une plage tridimensionnelle, Proceedings des XIèmes Journées Nationales Génier Côtier - Génie Civil, 379-386

Parisot, J.-P., Bonneton, P., Bonneton, N., Van-De-Look, J., Castelle, B., Marieu, V., Sottolichio, A., Dedandt, G., Oggian, G., Derriennic, H., Bujan, S., Tissier, M., Castaing, P., Lubin, P., Chanson, H., Pradalier, F., Marcel, R. 2010. Etude préliminaire des mascarets d'Aquitaine. Proceedings des XIèmes Journées Nationales Génier Côtier - Génie Civil, 945-954.

Tissier, M., Bonneton, P.,  Marche, F., Chazel, F.and Lannes, D.,. 2010 Serre Green-Naghdi modelling of wave transformation breaking and run-up using a high-order finite-volume finite-difference scheme. Proc. 32nd Int. Conf. on Coastal Eng., Shanghai, China. (.pdf)

Castelle, B.,  Michallet, H., Marieu, V., Leckler, F., Dubardier, B., Lambert,A., Berni, C., Bouchette, F., Bonneton, P., Kimmoun, O., Sous, D. and Almar, R. (2009). A large-scale laboratory experiment of rip current circulations over a moveable bed : drifter measurements. Proc. Coastal Dynamics 2009. (.pdf)
 
Tissier, M., Bonneton, P., Almar, R., Castelle, B. and Bonneton, N. 2009 Etude expérimentale de la célérité des vagues en zone de surf. 19ème Congrès Français de Mécanique, 6p. (.pdf)
 
Almar, R., Bonneton, P., Senechal, N., Roelvink, D. (2008). Wave celerity from video imaging: a new method. Proc. 31st Int. Conf. on Coastal Eng., Aout 31 - Sept 5, Allemagne.
 
Bruneau, N., Bonneton, P., Castelle, B., Pedreros, R., Parisot, J-P. and  Sénéchal, N. (2008). Modeling of the dynamics of a high energy rip current system during Biscarosse 2007 field experiment (Aquitanian Coast, France). Proc. 31st Int. Conf. on Coastal Eng.
 
Castelle, B., Ruessink, B. G., Bonneton, P., Bruneau, N., Marieu, V. (2008). Modeling of coupled and noncoupled behavior of a double sandbar system: self-organization and morphological forcing. Proc. 31st Int. Conf. on Coastal Eng., Aout 31 - Sept 5, Allemagne, 12 p.
 
Castelle, B., Grasso, F., Marieu, V., Bonneton, P., Bruneau, N. (2008). Développement d’un nouveau modèle d’évolution de profil de plage. Xèmes Journées Nationales Génie Côtie Génie Civil, 14-16 octobre, Sophia Antipolis, France.
 
Sénéchal, N., Ardhuin, F., Bonneton, P. et al. (2008). ECORS-Truc Vert’08 : Qualification des modeles de houle et de morphodynamique. Xèmes Journées Nationales Génie Côtie Génie Civil, 14-16 octobre, Sophia Antipolis, France.
 
Marche, F. et Bonneton, P. (2007). Un modèle “équilibre” d’ordre élevé pour les équations de Saint-Venant et extensions au cas dispersif pour la propagation de la houle en milieu littoral. 18ème Congrès Français de Mécanique, 6p.
 
Bonneton, N., Bonneton, P., Sénéchal, N. and Castelle, B. (2006). Very low frequency rip current pulsations during high-energy wave conditions on a meso-macro tidal beach, Proc. 30th Int. Conf. on Coastal Eng, 1, 1087-1096. (.pdf)
 
Cienfuegos, R., Barthelemy, E., Bonneton, P. and Gondran, X. (2006). Analysis of nonlinear surf zone wave properties as estimated from Boussinesq modelling: random waves and complex bathymetries. Proc. 30th Int. Conf. on Coastal Eng. 1, 360-371. (.pdf)
 
Marche, F. et Bonneton, P. (2006). Un nouveau modèle pour la simulation du phénomène de découvrement/recouvrement sur des bathymétries complexes. 9ième Conf. de Génie Côtier, Brest, 8p.
 
Marche, F. and Bonneton, P. (2006). A simple and efficient well-balanced scheme for 2D bore propagation and run-up over a sloping beach, Proc. 30th Int. Conf. on Coastal Eng., 1, 998-1010.
 
Marieu, V., Bonneton, P., Ardhuin, F. et Foster, D. (2006). Étude des rides sédimentaires générées par les vagues sur le plateau continental. 9ième Conf. de Génie Côtier, Brest, 8p.
 
Castelle, B., Bonneton, P., Butel, R. (2005). Morphodynamic modelling of nearshore crescentic bar dissymmetry on an open coast : Aquitanain Coast, France. 5th International Conference on Coastal Dynamics 2005, Barcelona, Spain, CD-ROM 12 p.
 
Dupuis, H., Raynaud, O., Hurther, D., Bonneton, P., Sénéchal, N. and Chapalain, G. (2005). Turbulence in the surf zone using two Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters. Proceeding Coastal Dynamics 2005, 10p.
 
Sénéchal, N., Bonneton, P., Dupuis, H. and Rey, V. (2005). Determination and impact of the characteristic wave period in wave energy dissipation in the surf zone. Proceeding Coastal Dynamics 2005, 10p.
 
Castelle B., Bonneton P. and Butel, R. 2004 Modélisation de la morphodynamique des barres en croissant de la côte aquitaine.  8ième Conf. de Génie Côtier, Compiègne, 8p.
 
Cienfuegos, R., Barthelemy, E. and Bonneton, P.  2004 Modélisation de la houle sur une plage par la résolution en volumes finis des équations de Serre. 8ième Conf. de Génie Côtier, Compiègne, 8p.
 
Sénéchal, N., Bonneton, P. et Dupuis, H. 2004 Paramétrisation de l'énergie des vagues en zone de surf : profil de plage "linéaire" et profil de plage à barres. 8ième Conf. de Génie Côtier, Compiègne, 8p.
 
Bonneton, P.  2004 Wave celerity in the inner surf zone. Proc. 29th Int. Conf. on Coastal Eng., 1, 392-401. (.pdf)
 
Cienfuegos, R., Barthelemy, E. and Bonneton, P. 2004 Roller modelling in the context of undertow prediction. Proc. 29th Int. Conf. on Coastal Eng., 1, 318-330.
 
Castelle, B., Saint-Cast, F. and Bonneton, P. 2003 2DH Modelling of sediment transport over a high energy barred-beach. Proceeding Conf. Coastal Sediments'03.
 
Castelle B., Saint-Cast F. and Bonneton P., 2003. Modelling of wave induced currents and sediment transport in a rip channel. 3rd IAHR Symposium on River, Coastal and Estuarine Morphodynamics, Barcelona.

Rossi, L.,  Michallet, H. and Bonneton, P. 2003 Evolution morphodynamique des dunes, couplage avec l'écoulement , 9 ème congrès ASF. (.pdf), talk (.pdf).
 
Bonneton, P. 2002 Dynamique non-linéaire des vagues en zone de surf interne. 7ième Conf. de Génie Côtier, Anglet, 8p.
 
Saint-Cast, F., Castelle, B., Bonneton, P. et Caltagirone, J-P. 2002 Modélisation des écoulements induits par la houle sur les plages d'Aquitaine. 7ième Conf. de Génie Côtier, Anglet.
 
Sénéchal, N., Bonneton, P. et Dupuis, H. 2002 Analyse de la période représentative de la houle en zone de surf. 7ième Conf. de Génie Côtier, Anglet, 8p.
 
Sénéchal, N., Bonneton, P. et coll. 2002 Présentation de la campagne de mesures intensives du PNEC : Truc Vert 2001. 7ième Conf. de Génie Côtier, Anglet, 12p.
 
Sénéchal, N., Bonneton, P. and Dupuis, H. 2002. Field observation of wave evolution on a double barred beach. Proc. 28th Int. Conf. on Coastal Eng, 1, 570-579.
 
Sénéchal, N., Dupuis, H. and Bonneton, P. 2002. Preliminary hydrodynamic results of a field experiment on a barred beach, Truc Vert beach on October 2001. Proceeding of PECS, Hamburg, September 2002.
 
Saint-Cast, F., Bonneton, P. and Caltagirone, J-P. 2001 On the splitting of the sediment fluxes balance : a new formulation for the sand waves équation. Conf. on Coastal Engineering 2001, Rhodes, Grèce.
 
Sénéchal, N., Bonneton, P. and Dupuis, H. 2001 Field observations of irregular wave transformation in the surf zone. Proceeding Coastal Dynamics 2001, 62-71.
 
Sénéchal, N., Bonneton, P. and Dupuis, H. 2001 Generation of secondary waves due to wave propagation over a bar : a field investigation. Proceeding WAVES 2001, 1, 764-772.
 
Bonneton, P. and Dupuis, H. 2000 Transformation of irregular waves in the inner surf zone. Proc. 27th Int. Conf. on Coastal Eng, 1, 745-754. (.pdf)
 
Bonneton, P., Vincent, S., Dupuis, H. and Pedreros, R. 1999 Modelling of wave transformation across the inner surf zone and swash oscillations on beaches. Proc. of the 4th Int. Conf. on Computer Modelling of Seas and Coastal Regions, Wit Press, 77-86.
 
Abadie, S., Bonneton, P. and Caltagirone, J-P. 1998 Numerical simulation of a plunging breaker. Lecture Notes in Physics, 16th Int. Conf. on Num. Methods in Fluid Dyn., 515, 458-463.
 
Bonneton, P., Caltagirone, J-P., Vincent, S. et Abadie, S. 1997 Modélisation de l'hydrodynamique en zone côtière. Proc. Bordomer97, 2, 287-297.
 

2 - Waves and turbulence in stratified fluids (1991-2002)

Refereed Journal Papers
 
[16] Galmiche, M., Thual, O. and Bonneton, P. 2002. Direct numerical simulation of turbulence-mean field interactions in a stably-stratified fluid. J. Fluid Mech., 455, 213-242. (.pdf)
 
[15] Galmiche, M., Hunt, J.C.R., Thual, O. and Bonneton P. 2001 Turbulence-mean field interactions and layer formation in a stratified fluid. European Journal of Mechanics B/fluids, 20, 577-585. (.pdf)

[14] Bonnier, M., Eiff, O. and Bonneton, P. 2000 On the density structure of far-wake vortices in a stratified fluid.   Dyn. Atmos. Oceans, 31, 117-137. (.pdf)

[13] Eiff, O. and Bonneton, P. 2000 Lee-wave breaking over obstacles in stratified flow. Physics of Fluids, 12 (5), 1073-1086. (.pdf)

[12] Galmiche, M., Thual, O. and Bonneton, P. 2000 Wave/wave interactions producing horizontal mean flows in stably stratified fluids. Dyn. Atmos. Oceans, 31, 193-207. (.pdf)

[11] Bonnier, M., Bonneton, P. and Eiff O. 1998 Far wake of a sphere in a stably stratified fluid: Characterization of the vortex structures. J. of Applied Sci. Research, 59, 269-281. (.pdf)
 
[10] Galmiche, M., Thual, O. and Bonneton, P. 1998 Direct numerical simulation of turbulence in a stably stratified fluid and wave-shear interaction. J. of Applied Sci. Research, 59, 111-125. (.pdf)
 
[9] Bonneton, P., Chomaz, J.M., Hopfinger, E. and Perrier, M. 1996 The structure of the turbulent wake and the random internal wave field generated by a moving sphere in a stratified fluid. Dyn. Atmos. Oceans, 23, 289-298. (.pdf)
 
[8] Kadri, Y., Bonneton, P., Chomaz, J.M. and Perrier, M. 1996 Stratified flow over three-dimensional topography. Dyn. Atmos. Oceans, 23, 321-334. (.pdf)
 
[7] Bonneton, P., Chomaz, J.M. and Hopfinger, E.J. 1993 Internal waves produced by the turbulent wake of a sphere moving horizontally in a stratified fluid. J. Fluid Mech., 254, 23-40. (.pdf)

[6] Chomaz, J.M., Bonneton, P. and Hopfinger, E.J. 1993 The structure of the near wake of a sphere moving in a stratified fluid. J. Fluid Mech., 254, 1-21. (.pdf)

[5] Chomaz, J.M., Bonneton, P., Butet, A. and Hopfinger, E.J. 1993 Vertical diffusion of the far wake of a sphere moving in a stratified fluid. Physics of Fluids, 5 (11), 2799-2806. (.pdf)
 
[4] Bonneton, P. and Chomaz, J.M.1992 Instabilities of the wake generated by a sphere. C.R. Acad. Sci. Paris, 314, Série II, 1001-1006.
 
[3] Chomaz, J.M., Bonneton, P., Butet, A., Hopfinger, E.J. and Perrier, M. 1992 Froude number dependence of the flow separation line on a sphere towed in a stratified fluid. Physics of Fluids, 4 (2), 254-258. (.pdf)
 
[2] Hopfinger, E.J., Flor, J.B., Chomaz, J.M. and Bonneton, P. 1991 Internal waves generated by a moving sphere and its wake in a stratified fluid. Exp. in Fluids, 11, 255-261. (.pdf)

Conference Proceedings
 
Eiff, O., and  Bonneton, P. 2000. Structural Features of Breaking Waves in Stratified Flow Over Mountains. In IUTAM Symposium on Developments in Geophysical Turbulence (pp. 109-117). Springer Netherlands. (.pdf)

Bonneton, P., Auban, O.  and Perrier, M. 1999 Experiments on two-dimensional lee-wave breaking in stratified flow.  IMA Conf. Proc. on Mixing and Dispersion in Stably Stratified Flows, Clarendon Press, Oxford, 68, 505-520.
 
Bonneton, P. et Bonnier, M. 1999 Turbulence quasi-deux-composantes dans un milieu stratifié stablement.  Proc. Congrès de Mécanique.
 
Bonnier, M., Eiff, O. et Bonneton, P. 1999  Structure interne de tourbillons en milieu stratifié. Proc. Congrès de Mécanique.
 
Eiff, O. et Bonneton, P. 1999 Déferlement d'onde de relief. Proc. Congrès de Mécanique.
 
Galmiche, M., Hunt, J.C.R., Thual, O. et Bonneton, P. 1999. Couches de cisaillement dans la turbulence stratifiée.  Proc. Congrès de Mécanique.
 
Eiff , O. and Bonneton, P. 1998  Vortex structure of a breaking wave in stratified flow over an obstacle, Proceedings of ETC-7 Advances in Turbulence VII, Kluwer Academic Publisher, 471-474.
 
Galmiche, M., Thual, O. and Bonneton, P. 1998 Acceleration of horizontal mean currents in DNS of turbulent stratified shear flows. Proc. of ETC-7. Advances in Turbulence VII. Kluwer Academic Publishers, 423-424.
 
Bonneton, P., Egermann, P. and Thual, O. 1995 Mixed region collapse in a stratified fluid. Euromech 339, "Internal waves, turbulence and mixing in stratified flows", Lyon.
 
Bonneton, P., Chomaz, J.M. and Hopfinger, E.J. 1992 Vortex shedding from spheres at subcritical Reynolds number in homogeneous and stratified fluid. "The geometry of turbulence", ASI series B, Ed. S.J. Jimenez, New York/London Plenum, p 13-21.
 
Chomaz, J.M., Bonneton, P., Butet, A., Hopfinger, E.J. and Perrier, M. 1991 Gravity wave patterns in the wake of a sphere in a stratified fluid. Selected papers from  Turbulence 89 : organized structures and turbulence in fluid mechanics, edited by  M. Lesieur and O. Métais, Kluwer Academic Publishers, p 489-503.
 
Bonneton, P., Chomaz, J.M. and Perrier, M. 1990 Interaction between the internal wave field and the wake emitted behind a moving sphere in a stratified fluid, Proc. of the conf. Engineering Turbulence Modelling and Experiments (Dubrovnik, Yugoslavia), edited by Rodi and Ganic, p 459-466.
 
 
 
3 – Other papers
 
[1] King, D., Daroussin, J., Bonneton, P. and Nicoullaud, B.1986 An improved method for combining map data. Soil Use and Management, 2 (4), 140-145.